Field Tested: Best Big Wall Climbing Gear
What do you bring up the northwest face of Yosemite's Half Dome in early October? Answer: not much. It’s a 1.5-mile approach gaining 3000-feet in elevation with multiple class 4-5 scrambles, followed by a 2000-foot wall of sheer granite. My climbing partner cut his toothbrush in half to shed weight. I left mine at base camp.
Climbing isn’t—and shouldn’t—be about the coolest newest gear. It’s about what works well. That’s why we brought whiskey.
Below is some of the essential non-technical gear I used. Whether you’re an ultralight backpacker, big-wall climber, or just happen to like stuff that works, this gear will deliver:
SmartWool Adrenaline Light Crew Socks ($18)
Since I wasn’t planning on bringing a second pair of socks up the wall, I needed something that would keep my feet warm and comfortable in a variety of conditions; from hiking in 80 degree weather down in the valley to subfreezing bivouacs on the wall. And, they would have to handle my notoriously sweaty (read: stinky) feet. This light, half-cushioned merino wool-and-nylon crew sock stayed fitted without bunching up, even after several days of heavy use. My partner also commented on the improvement of my foot odor when we were bivouacking. I’ll pack these again the next time I go play in the mountains, for sure. Tip: turn them inside-out to get an extra day of use out of ‘em. You won’t even notice the difference.
Five Ten Marvel Trail Running Shoes ($115)
No hiking boots? Damn right. They’re heavy, and generally totally unnecessary for everything but carrying a pack that’s probably too heavy for you too far. Stealth Rubber, on the outsole, stuck to the granite slabs like suction cups, and the low-profile upper of the shoe made working with the aiders more bearable—especially in high winds when they would flap around like Buddhist prayer flags. Before the trip, I had been running three to eight miles every day in the mountains near Santa Fe in these shoes. Snow, mud, scree, goatheads—they handled everything, without making me feel like I was wearing too much shoe. Mesh panels and breathable lining helps the shoes dry fast, and the ultra-light compression molded EVA midsoles have a shock absorbing heel wedge that eats up shock, letting you play hard all-day.
Patagonia Simple Guide Pants ($125)
I’ve used these pants for everything; mountaineering, cross-country skiing, hiking, whitewater canoeing, yoga, climbing—the first good date I had, I was wearing these pants. These pants are versatile! After four years and three different continents, I’ve only put one hole in them. And that came from a 20-foot upside-down lead fall while wearing crampons. The double-weave of all-recycled polyester and spandex with DWR-coating offers remarkable durability and weather-resistance while remaining lightweight. Water-resistant zippers close the pockets: two welded-in front, one thigh and one rear hip. And my favorite features: a draw-cord elastic waistband that eliminates the need for a belt, and a two-way zip fly for easy use with a harness.
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November 04, 2009
Field Tested: Yakima's HoldUp Hitch-Mount Bike Carrier
The Yakima Holdup bike carrier has a built-in bottle opener. Yeah, I know, so do flip-flops these days, but still.
But first, why the hitch-mounted tray-style bike carrier? Hitch-mounted racks make transporting bicycles easier because you don’t have to be Yao Ming or carry a stepladder to get your bike on top of your roof. If you are driving a four-or-all-wheel-drive rig, you are already nodding your head, especially if your ride is a 50-pound downhill mountain bike. Second, hitch-mounted racks save gas over roof-mounted models by reducing your vehicle’s aerodynamic profile. I couldn’t find any studies on it, and I’m not the sort who records my mileage, but I’m pretty sure you’d pay off the cost of the rack ($415, yakima.com) in a season or six in gasoline cost savings. Some people don’t like dead bugs getting welded onto their bikes when they are transported on the roof. Those people probably won’t care about the Holdup's bottle opener (just saying), but hitch-mounted racks fix that too. Why the tray style, which supports the bike from below rather than dangling them from the frame? Loading bikes onto the Holdup is very fast—like 10 seconds—even with mountain bikes that have strange geometry and don’t easily work on the less-expensive dangler-style models.
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August 13, 2009
Motorcycle Dialogs: Cardo Scala Rider Multi-Set Q2
By Joshua Placa
For those of us who do not find that the rhythm of the road carries enough resonance, there is the Scala Rider Multiset Q2 ( $220; cardosystems.com), the latest inter-helmet motorcycle communications device from Cardo Systems.
The box set contains two headsets that are mounted via helmet clamps (recommended) or a more permanent glue plate. Speakers must be placed inside the helmet in the area of your ears using self-adhering Velcro pads. The Q2 boasts a communication range between bikes of up to 1,640 feet in open terrain and clear weather. Of course, the unit’s effectiveness can be hampered by obstacles (like a mountain), general terrain, and whether it’s nice and sunny or pouring buckets on your head. As tested, a more realistic distance is about 800 feet.
That's fine as long as you stay pretty much in sight of the other rider, but the system is really made for chatter between rider and passenger. The Q2 can also stand alone as a Bluetooth headset for a cell phone, as a speaker that transmits GPS navigation from a “compatible” GPS system, or as a speaker for an embedded FM radio or MP3 player—all practical and entertaining advantages that can come in handy on long-haul runs.
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August 10, 2009
Throngs of Thongs
At every summer barbecue and lawn party I go to these days, every single dude is abiding in some form of rubber footbed with a strap across the top. The flip-flop. The iconic footwear of every beach town on the planet, and a perfect example of less-is-more. At Outside we felt it was incumbent on us to let our feet breathe in the name of science, so since the Fourth of July we've tested more than 50 pairs. Below, in alphabetical order, were our 10 favorites. (Props to Chaco, Teva, and the North Face for using recycled-plastic bags instead of cardboard boxes.) —Will Palmer
Chaco Flip EcoTread
Chaco has always had the sleekest profile, and these minimalist flips are no exception. Said one tester: "They've got the functional but comfortable footbed Chaco wearers love, without the weight of a hiking-boot sole." Add 25 percent recycled rubber in the outsoles and great packability for multi-day treks and you've got a versatile piece that doesn't draw attention to itself. Except possibly for the skull-themed one shown here. $55; chacousa.com
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July 24, 2009
Outdoor Retailer Highlights: Sexy Tandem Sleeping Bag
Camping can be a great date, and the Alite company has decided to really drive that point home. The small company has unveiled a line of car camping sleeping bags (20-degree, synthetic) designed for young people who
a) like to be be really comfortable around a campsite, and
b) like to spend time very, very close to each other.
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July 23, 2009
Field Tested: Kids' Backcountry Gear
Last month, three other dads and I took our six kids (three older girls, three younger boys) to Paria Canyon (left), on the Utah–Arizona state line. The 30-mile trek took us from blazing open riverbeds to spectacular, mossy, 300-foot red-rock walls—and bounteous mud. (I highly recommend it.) Here's some
of the family-friendly gear that made it work. (For bigger pictures of any item, click on the picture.)
-- Will Palmer
Sierra Designs Big Dog 20
A 2.3-pound, 20-degree synthetic bag that fits kids up to five feet tall—they grow fast, but obsolescence isn't a bad thing at this price. $100; sierradesigns.com
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir
The 47-inch version of this non-insulated (yet warm) nylon pad weighs a mind-boggling nine ounces, making it seem almost fragile—yet it held up just fine. From $120; thermarest.comKelty Pawnee 2700 Women's Backpack
For growing teenage girls, this internal-aluminum-frame pack, made for 14–16.5-inch torsos, provided dependable women's-specific support and comfort. $130; kelty.com
Merrell Chameleon Mid Waterproof Kids / Merrell Moab Mid Gore-Tex XCR
A perfect all-terrain kids' hiker, the Chameleon ($65) stood up to rocky trails, warded off moisture when we encountered it, and gripped tight on slippery surfaces. The wicking women's Moab Mid ($105) was particularly effective in the heat. merrell.com
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July 22, 2009
Outdoor Retailer Highlights: Merrell Bike Commuter Clothes
Some of the coolest new apparel I've seen at Outdoor Retailer comes from Merrell's upcoming bike commuter line(Spring 2010), which includes a jean pant and waterproof jacket. The pant and jacket are designed as weather resistant and functional bike apparel, but the techy elements can be tucked away so you don't look like a nerd when you get wherever you are riding to. And the pants have chaps. —JUSTIN NYBERG
From Merrell
Furtive: Jacket, made with Merrell® Opti-Shell™
waterproof-breathable technology, Fully seam sealed for complete waterproof
protection, Lightweight ripstop droptail provides
extra coverage and snaps up out of the way, Lightweight ripstop hood with one-handed drawcord fits comfortably under
a helmet and stows away for minimal bulk, Merrell® reflective chain print on droptail for complete
visibilityReflective cuff straps that hide by day.
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July 21, 2009
Outdoor Retailer Highlights: Merrell Commuter Clothes
Merrell is showing some of the coolest new apparel at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market--a jean pant and waterproof jacket from their upcoming bike commuter line (Spring 2010). The company designed the weather resistant and functional bike apparel with techy elements that can be tucked away, so you don't look like a nerd at that party across town. And just to make sure you don't get wet or muddy, the pants have chaps. —JUSTIN NYBERG
Furtive: The jacket is made with Merrell® Opti-Shell™
waterproof-breathable technology and is fully seam sealed for complete protection. It includes a lightweight ripstop droptail that provides
extra coverage and snaps up out of the way. A lightweight ripstop hood with one-handed drawcord fits comfortably under
a helmet or stows away for minimal bulk. The jacket also includes reflective cuff straps that you can hide by day.
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July 20, 2009
Best New Gear: Outdoor Retailer Highlights
Here are some of my early picks for gear highlights from the Outdoor Retailer show, going on now (July 20-24, 2009) in Salt Lake City, UT. The show is the coming-out party for next season's best gear. Most or all of this stuff isn't available on the market until spring 2010. We'll be testing much of it over the coming months to tell you which of these products live up to their claims. In the meantime, consider this a preview of the some of the most interesting stuff at the show. —JUSTIN NYBERG, Outside magazine
Polar's new HR monitor and training watch looks wicked. On the surface, it sounds very much like every other HR monitor that Polar has put out for a while. But it looks sweet. Here's their info on it: "The new Polar RS300X is a smart, intuitive training computer that gives runners and cross-training athletes the option to track speed and distance with either GPS or an available foot pod accessory. By pairing the RS300X with either the G1 GPS sensor or the S1 foot pod™, athletes have the flexibility to choos e the technology that best meets their training and fitness needs whether indoors or outside. Runners will find the most value in the real-time pace and distance measurement of the S1 foot pod, while those who mix up their training regimen with cycling, inline skating, kayaking, mountain biking or hiking will be best served with the speed and distance measurements from the G1 GPS sensor."
WORLD'S LIGHTEST 15-DEGREE BAG?
Outdoor Retailer is a Mecca for superlatives. Here's another one. Sierra Designs says the Vapor 15 is the world's lightest 15-degree bag (30 ounces). Which, if it's true, is really cool—I think a 15-degree bag is the one I'd go with if I could only have one bag. If it's this lightweight, it still works for summer in the mountains, and it's just warm enough to handle most shoulder season camping. In the middle of winter, or for lower-48 mountaineering, it's either good enough or close enough—if it's way colder than 15 degrees, you just wear your puffy to bed, and you're good.
Anyway, back to SD. Here's the story, via the company: "The newest member to join the SD ultralight lineup, the Vapor 15 shaves weight by using light and warm 850-fill goose down insulation, an offset 25" jacket zipper, and 15d shell and lining to create the lightest weight 15º bag ever created. An ultralight jacket hood saves weight while adding warmth by eliminating dead air space. An ergonomically shaped foot box with zippered vent adds comfort while sleep pad locks can be removed for additional weight savings. Available in Short, Medium, and Long sizes. Vapor 15 Medium: 30 oz, fits to 6', $439"
BUDGET WEATHERPROOF GEAR
David Peyser Sportswear has a new line called 32° Weatherproof. They are trying to hit the most cost-minded outdoor consumer. These days, who isn't? We have yet to actually see this stuff, but value gear is going to be a big theme at this year's show. Price: unknown
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July 17, 2009
Field Tested: Outlier's Summer Shorts
At heart I’m a sartorial traditionalist. As such, I consider shorts to be beach or street wear and not the right apparel for the office, even ones that redefine the concept of “casual.” (All it took to get me thinking this way was a former colleague’s affection for wearing short shorts throughout August--and crossing his legs during meetings).
But as a cycling commuter with an implicit disdain for the Washington DC metro, when the swampland humidity of summer descends, biking in pants just isn’t an option. I’ve never been one for tight-fitting spandex, and typically default to a pair of cheap baggy cotton shorts that quickly get dirty and sweaty enough to walk on their own after a week.
But when I tried out Outlier’s new Summer Shorts ($120), everything changed. Forget the oversized hip-hangers. These svelte shorts fit perfectly, stopping about two inches above the knee for unencumbered riding and cinching at the waist via twin side pulls with metal loops that can double as a key clip. The summer-weight Schoeller soft shell fabric offers the right measure of four-way stretch, along with urban-centric features like water, stain, and abrasion resistance. Better still, the machine wash-friendly shorts also double as a quick-drying swim suit, which can make for epic office-to-pool-to-home evening rides. They also work as an optimal pair of shorts for all sorts of weekend endeavors, urban or otherwise. But it’s Outlier’s overall craftsmanship that truly sets these shorts apart. From expected features like four deep pockets to the overall buttery-soft touch to the graceful swoop of the swan’s neck in the company logo, this Brooklyn-based performance apparel company employs the attention to minute detail that most cyclists demand of their apparel, even for a mere 15-minute commute from Adams Morgan to the National Mall. And while my gangly 6’2” frame--complete with bone-white legs that make AC/DC’s Angus look like Lance Armstrong--precludes me from wearing the shorts during those endless office meetings, the Summer Shorts have become my go-to choice for warm-weather city cycling. (One caveat: if, like me, you prefer to don a pair of pants when you get to the office, a lack of belt loops means you need to pack your belt, something I forgot on more than one embarrassing occasion.)
--Nathan Borchelt
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