Yangshuo Climbing Festival: Day Three
Yangshuo Climbing Festival Day 3: Steady Drizzle.
The morning's scheduled outdoor climbing workshops were moved to the Yangshuo Kungfu Training Centre. I biked over around 9:30 a.m. to watch Alex Honnold give a lesson on "knee-bar-ing" -- using one's knees, rather than feet or hands, to stabilize -- for a dozen reverent twentysomethings.
One was Pyry Tuominen Tampere, a twenty-six-year old Finnish climber with a scruffy blond beard. Tampere, who is traveling around the world with his girlfriend, explained why he was grinning like a kid on Christmas morning: "It's not every day you get a lesson from one of the best climbers in the world!"
A few minutes later, Tampere and co. ceded the bouldering wall to a bunch of Chinese dudes with electric drills. The latter were designing new "problems" for the second and final round of the Yangshuo bouldering comp. According to "Xitang" (aka Alex), a local climbing guide who oversaw the wall's construction, wall materials were sourced from as far as Guangzhou, Shenzhen and Shanghai.
The remainder of our Sunday morning felt sleepy in a good way. A Seattle-like mist was shrouding downtown shops. I spotted several climber-types huddled over lattes and late breakfasts at Cafe China, a foggy-windowed local haunt. Tom, my new Australian buddy, went for a massage. I slurped noodles at a market.
Continue reading "Yangshuo Climbing Festival: Day Three" »
 |
Comments (0) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
November 16, 2009
Yangshuo Climbing Festival: Day Two
Fire and rain bracketed my second day at the 2009 Yangshuo Climbing Festival. The former began in the common room of my rustic hotel, a 4-kilometer bike ride from downtown. Someone had stored a pile of scrap two-by-fours too close to the wood stove. When I looked up from my coffee, a mini blaze was threatening to creep up the walls. Fortunately a cook doused the flames with water.
After breakfast, I went biking with Tom, a friendly climber from Australia. Tom and I were looking for a famous local crag called "White Mountain." But we couldn't figure out how to hold our trusty Yangshuo map.
Yangshuo, as it turns out, is a great place to get lost. A two-hour cycle-jaunt whizzed us past livestock, farmland, smiling kids, orchards (those "peaches," on reflection, taste more like apricots) and majestic karst pillars. The landscape here looks like a land version of Vietnam's karst-tastic Ha Long Bay.
Thanks to Tom's Mandarin phrasebook and a friendly local villager, we found White Mountain by mid afternoon. This is where festival organizers have funded construction of a permanent toilet for Yangshuo climbers. Ryan Gellert, managing director for Black Diamond Equipment Asia, says this and other projects
White Mountain was crawling with climbers from Shenzhen, a large Chinese city near Guangzhou and Hong Kong. A few of them graciously allowed us to climb their top rope. The view from route's end showed karst, farmland and trees stretching out toward the horizon. And storm clouds.
Continue reading "Yangshuo Climbing Festival: Day Two" »
|
Comments (0) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
November 14, 2009
Yangshuo Climbing Festival: Day One
Ni Hao, Outside Readers,
Mike Ives here -- a freelance writer based in Hanoi, Vietnam. For the next few days, I'll be filing dispatches from the second-annual Yangshuo Climbing Festival in Yangshuo, China. If my aching fingers will cooperate.
A little background info on Yangshuo: This touristy town in Guangxi Province (which borders Vietnam and the Gulf of Tonkin) is an overnight bus ride from mega-cities Guangzhou, Shenzhen and Hong Kong. The late American climber Todd Skinner set some of the first Yangshuo routes in the early 1990s. Last year's inaugural fest drew more than 350 climbers from 15 countries.
And a word about me: I've been living in Asia since May. Before that, I was a staff reporter at Seven Days, the alt weekly in Burlington, Vermont. I'm not a particularly committed climber -- my favorite part about top-roping at the "Gunks," near New Paltz, New York, is the post-session souvlaki. But I understand words like "beta," "crimp" and "jug," and I know good climbers when I see 'em.
Many are in Yangshuo this weekend. It's easy to see why: Yangshuo's urban core of dumpling shops, touristy boutiques and internet cafes is flanked by postcard-perfect karst cliffs. Fifteen-minute bike rides past farms, mud-brick houses and peach orchards land you at the base of more than 300 primo sport routes. Indeed, says Ryan Gellert, managing director for Black Diamond Equipment Asia, Yangshuo has lately become "ground zero" for climbing in China.
Continue reading "Yangshuo Climbing Festival: Day One" »
|
Comments (2) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
Alpinist Tomaz Humar Confirmed Dead
Veteran climber Tomaz Humar was found dead today after being stranded for days on Langtang Lirung in the Himalayas, according to the AP. Earlier today, the flight operations manager for Swiss Air Zermatt confirmed Humar's body was retrieved by a three-man rescue team.
Humar, who has some 1,500 ascents to his name and has been the recipient of several mountaineering awards, apparently used a satellite phone to call a friend to say that he was injured on Tuesday. Though fellow climbers searched for Humar during the last several days, heavy snow and bad weather hampered efforts. He was found in a different location than expected.
"He was lower than expected, at 5,600 meters not 6,300 meters," Gerald Bin of Swiss Air Zermatt told the AP.
Humar leaves behind a wife and two children.
Read more about Humar's initial call and stranding and more about his career in the stories below.
Cold Call: Tomaz Humar, Outside Magazine, February 2008
Climbing Lessons from the School of Tomaz Humar, Outside Magazine, June 2006
Tomaz Humar Photo Gallery, Outside Magazine, June 2006
--Joe Spring
|
Comments (0) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
November 12, 2009
Fabrizio Zangrilli on Latok II and Guiding K2
Mountaineer Fabrizio Zangrilli recently stopped by Outside's office in Santa Fe to talk about his experience guiding 10 clients up K2 this past fall. Few alpinists have a resume to match. Zangrilli has been climbing for 22 years, has led more than 20 expeditions in the Karakorum and Himalaya, has led world class rescues, and has spent at least one year of his life on K2. He broke down the anatomy of the mountain and the special challenges of leading a large group. We covered Zangrilli's new venture before the climb and we were glad to hear—though he didn't reach the summit due to deep snow at the top—that his entire team remained safe. You can get an idea of the climb in this K2 gallery.
The 37-year-old Boulder, Colorado climber did not return home immediately after the expedition. Instead he volunteered to participate in an incredibly difficult rescue mission on Latok II in Pakistan. A Spaniard fell and broke his leg while attempting to summit the peak in August, and authorities called upon Zangrilli, who was already acclimatized and had a very unique set of skills, to help with the rescue. The team struggled against bad weather and a shortage of supplies. (Some resupply efforts were less than ideal as goods were dropped into a swamp from a helicopter traveling at high speed, leaving broken crates, wet sleeping bags, etc.) Though Zangrilli and his crew made a valiant attempt at rescue, poor weather forced the team to turn around 300 meters from the victim. Extreme conditions would have jeopardized the team's safety had it continued. A sad ending, but a necessary decision in what was an undeniably bold and courageous effort.
To hear a summary of Fabrizio's summer in his own words, check out fabriziozangrilli.blogspot.com.
--Aileen Torres
Photo by Fabrizio Zangrilli
|
Comments (0) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
November 06, 2009
Field Tested: Best Big Wall Climbing Gear
What do you bring up the northwest face of Yosemite's Half Dome in early October? Answer: not much. It’s a 1.5-mile approach gaining 3000-feet in elevation with multiple class 4-5 scrambles, followed by a 2000-foot wall of sheer granite. My climbing partner cut his toothbrush in half to shed weight. I left mine at base camp.
Climbing isn’t—and shouldn’t—be about the coolest newest gear. It’s about what works well. That’s why we brought whiskey.
Below is some of the essential non-technical gear I used. Whether you’re an ultralight backpacker, big-wall climber, or just happen to like stuff that works, this gear will deliver:
SmartWool Adrenaline Light Crew Socks ($18)
Since I wasn’t planning on bringing a second pair of socks up the wall, I needed something that would keep my feet warm and comfortable in a variety of conditions; from hiking in 80 degree weather down in the valley to subfreezing bivouacs on the wall. And, they would have to handle my notoriously sweaty (read: stinky) feet. This light, half-cushioned merino wool-and-nylon crew sock stayed fitted without bunching up, even after several days of heavy use. My partner also commented on the improvement of my foot odor when we were bivouacking. I’ll pack these again the next time I go play in the mountains, for sure. Tip: turn them inside-out to get an extra day of use out of ‘em. You won’t even notice the difference.
Five Ten Marvel Trail Running Shoes ($115)
No hiking boots? Damn right. They’re heavy, and generally totally unnecessary for everything but carrying a pack that’s probably too heavy for you too far. Stealth Rubber, on the outsole, stuck to the granite slabs like suction cups, and the low-profile upper of the shoe made working with the aiders more bearable—especially in high winds when they would flap around like Buddhist prayer flags. Before the trip, I had been running three to eight miles every day in the mountains near Santa Fe in these shoes. Snow, mud, scree, goatheads—they handled everything, without making me feel like I was wearing too much shoe. Mesh panels and breathable lining helps the shoes dry fast, and the ultra-light compression molded EVA midsoles have a shock absorbing heel wedge that eats up shock, letting you play hard all-day.
Patagonia Simple Guide Pants ($125)
I’ve used these pants for everything; mountaineering, cross-country skiing, hiking, whitewater canoeing, yoga, climbing—the first good date I had, I was wearing these pants. These pants are versatile! After four years and three different continents, I’ve only put one hole in them. And that came from a 20-foot upside-down lead fall while wearing crampons. The double-weave of all-recycled polyester and spandex with DWR-coating offers remarkable durability and weather-resistance while remaining lightweight. Water-resistant zippers close the pockets: two welded-in front, one thigh and one rear hip. And my favorite features: a draw-cord elastic waistband that eliminates the need for a belt, and a two-way zip fly for easy use with a harness.
Continue reading "Field Tested: Best Big Wall Climbing Gear" »
|
Comments (1) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
November 05, 2009
Adventure Lab: World's Best Climber
Welcome to the Adventure Lab, our new blog dedicated to the intersections of science, sports, education and nature. The connections will sometimes be loose, but that should make it fun. Please comment and ask questions.
This week at NASA's Dryden Research Center in California, three teams of scientists are competing to propel robotic climbers up cables using directed lasers. The sponsoring partners hope the competition spurs development of a climbing elevator that can work in outer space. That's why they're offering the winner $2 million. (You can watch the competition live here.)
No doubt some of the climbing designs get their inspiration from nature. This fact, and the coincidence that Dean Potter will be featured this Sunday on NBC's World of Adventure Sports FreeBASEing the Eiger, lead me to reach for the question: What animal is the best climber on earth?
DEAN POTTER VS THE TOKAY GECKO
DEAN POTTER
Constant climbing has made Dean
Potter’s hands tougher than the bottom of most people’s feet. “I can stick my
hand into crystallized cracks and hold on to razors,” said Potter.
While a marathoner may prep by running 50-70 miles a week, Potter “easy” free-solos up vertical faces four or five days a week, three to four hours each day. In the spring and summer he frequents Yosemite, in the fall and winter Patagonia, Chile, and Moab. The constant movement—balancing, flexing, wedging, launching—builds a physical knowledge that allows him to approach a state of grace on harder routes. “I think that’s where the highest level of climbing happens, when you’re moving instinctually,” said Potter. “I kind of, more and more, don’t think about it rationally.”
Continue reading "Adventure Lab: World's Best Climber" »
|
Comments (0) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
October 28, 2009
The Gear Junkie Scoop: Stormy Kromer Bunkhouse Trousers
As recently as five years ago, Army-Surplus wool pants were a stalwart piece in my winter outerwear getup. I'd pair the coarse, jungle-green trousers, which were purchased for $20 to $30 at secondhand shops, with a Gore-Tex shell jacket for ice climbing and head outdoors into the chill air of northern Minnesota or Ontario's Orient Bay area, where ice axes and tall, cold cliffs afforded a venue for the ascent of frozen icefalls as high as apartment buildings.
Kick a crampon through the tough matte of wool above the ankle cuff and, oh well, the pants didn't set you back all that much. They were warm, too. And, unlike hard-shell pants I'd paid hundreds of dollars for, the cheapo woolies breathed so well you could feel subzero air seeping in and out just slightly with the wind.
This winter, wool pants are back. Though the price has shot up, the Bunkhouse Trousers from Michigan-based Stormy Kromer (stormykromer.com) hold true to my vision of a solid pair of winter pants. They are made with thick and plush--but tough--wool blend.
Continue reading "The Gear Junkie Scoop: Stormy Kromer Bunkhouse Trousers" »
|
Comments (0) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
October 21, 2009
Red River Gorge Rocktoberfest Ensures More Climbing
Rock and Ice reports that the 9th annual Red River Gorge Rocktoberfest fundraiser was a huge success, raising $23,000 to pay off the mortgage on a 750-acre plot of land preserved for rock climbers. This plot of land in the Pendergrass-Recreational Preserve in Kentucky's Daniel Boone National Forest was saved by the Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition in 2004. The RRGCC has held Rocktoberfest every October to raise funds to permanently buy the land. This year 600 people attended the three day event which included the Reel Rock Film Tour, yoga, live music, and various competitions.
--Alison Kelman
|
Comments (0) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
The Good Route: Biking, Climbing, Paddling Down to 350
This Saturday, October 24th, will be action-packed. Normally, this would not be news for Outside readers, for whom most weekends are packed with biking, skiing, boating, etc. But this year, it's news. October 24th is the much-anticipated international day of action, designed to get everyone—really, everyone—talking about climate change and demanding action from world leaders to make real strides in mitigating its impact by signing a new, aggressive treaty during the upcoming United National Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen.
Hard to say whether this Saturday's actions will set off the chain re-action we imagined in the October issue (well, OK, that scenario is a real stretch). But you're probably going to be out and about this weekend anyway, right? So if you believe climate change is happening, if you believe it is a real threat to humanity (not to mention your outdoor recreation opportunities), and if you can count to 350*, there's really no reason not to add your voice—and sweat—to the choir.
Here's a small sampling of the more than 4,000 events that are planned, or already in motion, around the world (170 countries and counting):
A dozen Bay Area cyclists took off Monday on a 350-mile ride down the California coast. They'll arrive in San Francisco on Saturday. If you're in that 'hood, join them for the very last bit of their giro (details here).
Legendary climber Lynn Hill plans to unfurl a 350.org banner (from the top of an still-undisclosed ascent)
Pro XC skiers on Team Steinbock will warm up their legs in a rollerski race for 350.org at Soldier in Midway, UT.
Pro mountain biker Lea Davison is leading a ride in Jericho, VT and Kiwi mountain bike pro Kashi Leuchs is leading a ride in Dunedin, NZ.
Record-setting ocean rower Roz Savage will speaking at a 350.org event in London
Canadian World Cup skiers Thomas Grandi & Sara Renner are leading a ride in Canmore, Alberta.
In Portland, Ore., a gaggle of boaters will form a huge 350 in the Willamette River
Speaking of oceans, in NYC cyclists are planning a "Future Sea Level Ride," complete with aquatic costumes, to drive—er, ride—the point home that climate change means rising oceans.
Over in Middlebury, VT (ground zero for the 350.org, since organizer Bill McKibben is a scholar-in-residence at Middlebury College) you can join in on 350 sun salutations, among many other events
And should you find yourself in Times Square on Saturday, you can watch highlights of these global actions as they're beamed to a 30-foot screen.
So what are you planning? Let us know. And if you can't join any of the above, find an action on this handy map, or create your own.
*According to NASA scientist James Hansen, 350 parts per million is the safe upper limit for atmospheric CO2. Many leading scientists concur with this estimation. Right now, we're at about 387 ppm. So we've got some serious back-pedaling to do.
--Mary Catherine O'Connor is a freelance writer, covering the environment, sustainability and outdoor recreation. The Good Route, her new blog for Outside Online, is focused on the places where the active life and sustainability merge.
|
Comments (0) | | | Email this post | | | TrackBack (0) | | | Permalink |
