Everest Q & A

For his book, Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season, Outside columnist Nick Heil spent a month at Base Camp reporting on the second deadliest season on the world’s highest mountain. Read an exclusive excerpt in the May issue (on newsstands now) that investigates uber-guide Russell Brice’s involvement in the deaths. Then ask Heil a question in the comments  section below.

During the 2006 season on Everest, some 40 climbers passed a dying man, David Sharp, on their way to the summit. Many people think the pressure on guides to get their clients to the top was a factor in this tragedy. What’s your take?

This question speaks directly to a pervasive misperception that continues to stigmatize Everest. Some of the stories regarding Sharp's death suggested that the Himex guides and climbers were instructed by Brice, the expedition leader, to leave Sharp behind when they found him early on the morning of May 15. This is simply not the case (or if it was, it was a cover-up of extraordinary complexity). After a year of reporting, I turned up no evidence that this discussion ever took place. All those who voiced opinions later about what more could have or should have been done to save Sharp either didn't fully appreciate the details, or chose to ignore them. I do think there is a lot of pressure on guides who take clients to the summit of Everest, but I think it is a gross and irresponsible oversimplification to insinuate that this is the cause that lay behind Sharp's death.

After seeing and experiencing Everest firsthand, any desire to climb Everest yourself?

Well, the short answer is yes. The longer and more complicated answer is yes, but it depends. Most of my mountaineering trips have been somewhat miserable affairs where I'm cold, scared, and tired most of the time. But I think therein lies climbing's curious appeal. To overcome these things is incredibly empowering. I climbed to the North Col in May 2007, and I felt like crap pretty much the whole time, but I stood there and stared at the top and thought, damn, it's right there. I did have an inkling that I could pull it off.

The Chinese seem confident they can summit Everest this spring with the Olympic torch by May 10th. Care to give us an over/under as to when they will actually do it?

Hah. Who's the bookie? Okay, here's my take: I saw the Chinese last year doing a dry run to the top with the torch. It's impressive, to be sure—like a well-organized ground strike. As for their success this season, I'm pretty confident they'll pull it off, but May 10 is awfully early. A lot is dependent on the weather, of course. I'm guessing they'll probably have multiple waves of climbing teams positioned so that if one team gets turned back they'll have the next acclimatized and ready to grab the torch and charge. How 'bout these odds: 20-1 before May 10, 10-1 May 10-15, 3-1 May 15-20? Put a Ben Franklin down for me, will you?

Ask Heil a question in the comments section below.

Comments

[Gunther Maier]

Nick,
I just read your book, great job, loved it. My dream is to trek to Base Camp next year. I live in Santa Fe and thought, if you have time and interest, we can meet over lunch to get some inside from your experience?

[Aaron Ware]

I watch the series everest beyond the limit. Great show. The Dvd recordings are great. Any news on season three? Heard about the ban on climbing this spring.

[estrellita]

well i guess i am just a bit verklempt as to what all the bitching was about... i am not a climber but was in a relationship with an extreme outdoor enthusiast for over ten years and have a great friend that teaches rock climbing at utah state.... my point being that 'duh' if the person is near death, dying, whatever,.... not too much you can do .... i watched the 'everest' series on television and did not see that they did anything wrong ... the persons passing said dying man were at their limits oxygen wise themselves if i remember correctly so what more were they to do ... with the numbers of sherpas per climber there seemed to me no possible way in hell to get said climer down ... i was sad for him but he was silly no irresponsible and quite frankly disrespectful to one of gods greatest natural creations to be so narcissitic to think he could/should solo her..... i had a very difficult time with the situation in that i was kinda like 'way it goes' .... a great many men lost their lives trying to save people who should not have been on her years back .... scott fisher and the likes and well ... sorry but to lose more due to someones egocentric attempt at bragging rights was just not anything i saw that need occur again .... it is sad and tragic that that young man died but really logistically there was just nothing that could have been done .... for those who are up at arms about it .. watch the footage ... and if you still do not get it ... tevo it .... put it on slowmotion and watch it again ....

[The Adventurist]

First off, thanks Nick for responding. Regarding your question of 'reliable' information in regards to Everest...this season has thrown us all for a loop with the Chinese trying to incorporate some sort of Everest ownership over the mountain...reliable information is out there, if you have the sources, but everything needs to be double-checked. For those of us that follow Everest year in and year out--we have been debating on how to 'clean up' some of the media reports floating around in regards to inaccuracies, rumors, and so forth--which has become a big problem the last few years.

Outside, ExWeb, EverestNews, The Adventure Blog, and my own site have all ran into the same problems--climbers and guides don't trust journalists or writers--and likewise--us, them to a degree. Without someone actually reporting from basecamp, the news will be skewered.

Being a writer, yourself, how were you received? Did Brice let you in the circle or were you left dangling on the outside looking in? He is known for pushing away journalists and not talking--perhaps Outside got you in, but how were you able to get Russell to let you in?

[Julian Proctor]

I understand that there are no clear answers, but it still seems to me that Sharp's death was inevitable and the result of his own endeavors. Considerable time was spent trying to revive him and the judgement, at the time, that he could not be saved seems to be valid.
Brice may be all the things people love or hate but to label him as a cause of this unfortunate man's death is a reach.
There is an obvious inherent risk in mountaineering, which is accepted by all those who love the high places. this is more true on Everest than most mountains because of the altitude and the weather patterns. All those who climb it are entirely aware of them. The idea that someone else should automatically take responsibility for bailing one out is all fine and dandy except that it likely places others at enormous risk. I am not a fan of "Pay to Go" and feel that this has led to people being on the mountain who do not belong there. This has led in turn to unecessary deaths and the currency of successful ascents has been debased.You may not approve of the concept, but there is no turning back the clock, and Brice has done an extraordinary job of getting people to the top safely, and benefitted the region economically. How about "realistic rather than "callous".
My question has nothing to do with Brice. Was Krakauer right about the Russian guides role in the debacle chronicled in Into Thin Air? Julian Proctor

[David Connolly]

Is it even worth it (it being the cost in $)to a climber to summit Everest anymore? How much further does your dollar go to climb K2? And even though Everest is highest you can't compare it to Annapurna, that mountain will just eat you alive.

[Nick Heil]

Last question first: What keeps Brice going (on Everest)? It's everything you've mentioned--money, success, the business of climbing Everest. But it's more than that too. Brice has spent the better part of his adult life organizing and running expeditions. He's good at it. He's respected for it (though he has his critics). And I think he genuinely derives a great deal of satisfaction getting people to the top of the world's tallest peaks. It's become a way of life, and that's hard to give up. Yeah, it's tough work, but therein lies some of it's satisfaction. Like any professional, developing the ability to do what you do well can become one of the most self-sustaining forces out there. Also, it's true that Brice has done well for himself over the last few years, on Everest and elsewhere, but he's not the fat cat some would make him out to be. I've been privy of his operation, when I climbed with Himex last year, in Spring 07, and, say whatever you want about the merits or demerits of commercial climbing: Brice works his ass off and sets the gold standard for outfitters on the north side. I can assure you, a great many people make a lot more money in far less respectable fashion than he does.

As for this year in and the business with the Chinese. I'm sure they are going to try to get up and down as early and as quick as they can but April 28 is way early. If the weather cooperates they can do it. Otherwise, I'd predict it's going to be closer to mid May. Is there reliable information coming off the mountain at this point? I've been trying to follow things, but it's always tricky wants the expeditions get going.

[The Adventurist]

Hey Nick,

I follow Everest myself, with my own site. I am hearing the Chinese are going to try their first run around April 28. They are also planning four separate runs this season--four separate groups will carry the torch to the top.

By the way, enjoyed your article in Outside this month. Just read it yesterday. I guess all of us question Brice. It was noted in your article that Brice was awarded a multi-million dollar contract for Everest: Beyond the Limit, why would he not take the chance and hang it up? He hates the media, he shuns publicity--and controversy seems to walk hand-in-hand with him. Just this season he mentioned he was scheduled to help the Chinese Expedition in an interview, yet was not given the permit. What keeps him going? Is it Everest or is it Money? I think a lot of peoples judgements on him revolve around the money issue--he's got it, they don't. Do you think that this hampers his 'ethical' thinking when it comes to the Expeditions?