Peter Will Go

Pro Surfer Peter Mel can be ready at a moments notice to cut into a wave that’s taller than a six-story building. Right now, he's waiting in California for the swells on the North Shore to rise so the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational in Memory of Eddie Aikau can be held. When the Waimea Bay waves do rise, he’ll have less than a day to get to Hawaii before competing against 23 of the world’s best surfers. Quiksilver holds the contest - sometime between December 1 and February 29 - only if the swells outside the bay measure a minimum 20 feet for a full day. Outside caught up with Mel as he kept an eye on the weather and waves.

--Jason Kerkmans

Outside: How do you prepare for an event that may take place thousands of miles away with only a few hours notice?
Mel: It can be difficult. Especially since I come from the mainland. It’s the surfer’s responsibility to know when it might happen, so you become an amateur meteorologist, looking at maps and forecasts. The anticipation is hard but you have to roll with the punches and be prepared to get over there whenever it looks possible. A big problem we have right now is that the NOAA [ The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration] buoy is out of commission and so we’re basically out of factual information. We have to rely more on estimates. But even if the event wasn’t going to happen I’m always paying attention to the reports. I chase swells, it’s my job and I’m passionate about it.

Outside: How do you train for an event that might not occur?
Mel: Right before last time the Big Wave Invitational almost happened [January 13, 2008] it ended up that I was driving to another surfing event in Oregon and got a call that there was a big swell in Half Moon Bay, California. So I turn around and go there. That night I get another call that the Quiksilver could be happening. So, the next morning I landed in Hawaii and had to be ready for the event. [It didn’t happen because of the lack of wave quality that day.] I’m becoming a travel agent of sorts also. I know that the latest flight I can catch from the West Coast and still make it to Hawaii in time for my heat is a 2 a.m. departure out of Las Vegas that lands at 6:30 a.m. on the island.

Outside: What does the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational mean to you?
Mel: It’s the biggest surfing event in my career. I went to Hawaii for my first North Shore experience when I was 14. I met Richard Schmidt, who became my mentor and who was an invitee for the Big Wave event. I remember the images from 1990 when he finished second and they stick with me to this day. I’ve been going every year since then, and I’m 38 now. I’ve been a member for 13 or 14 years and in that time the event has been held five times. Richard and I only competed together twice in the Big Wave before he was the one who passed the torch to me. He went to Quiksilver and said he wouldn’t be able to do it anymore and that sort of opened the door for me. And even though I never got to formally meet Eddie Aikau we all idolized him as kids and being invited was and is a great honor. Eddie is the father of Hawaii’s big wave surfing.

Readers eager to scout the same swells Mel watches, can get Web updates from Quiksilver.